YES!  The Bose L1 Pro range has a subwoofer.  Depending on which model, the subwoofer is either built into the power stand, or a separate active sub (the Sub1 or Sub2).

Take a look at the differences and what the unique subwoofer design looks like.  Read more here.

Even though each L1 has multiple little speakers inside, technically the L1 Pro is a single speaker system.  This means is can only ever be a mono speaker.

But – what if you’re sending a stereo signal to it, or if you’re running two speakers?

There’s quite a bit to this topic.  Read the simple breakdown explanation here.

How many watts is the Bose L1 Pro16?

Simple answer: 1250 watts.

But there’s more to it, of course.  Watts is only a measurement, a number that doesn’t really tell you what you need to know.

Read the full article here about how loud the L1 Pro16 is and how big of a crowd it can be used for.

How many watts is the Bose Sub1?

The simple answer is 480 watts. But that doesn’t really tell you anything important, like how LOUD is it?  Will it be loud enough for you to be used for specific venues or music or events?

Take a look at a more in depth answer based on decibels and how that is important.

How many wats is the Sub1?  Read more here

If you want to connect your Tonematch T8s to the L1 Pro8, Pro16, or Pro32, you just need a couple of Ethernet cables.

You can run a single L1 Pro in mono, or a pair of L1 Pro, S1 Pro or F1 812 in either stereo, or dual mono (daisy chain).

Follow the simple guide here: Tonematch T8s to L1 Pro connection guide

The original T1 Tonematch mixer will need an audio cable (two if connecting two L1 Pro systems in stereo or dual mono), and an ethernet cable (or Tonematch power supply).

Important: The L1 Pro8, Pro16, or Pro32 can power the T1 Tonematch mixer via the ethernet cable, but won’t do audio.  Unlike the much older L1 Model II or L1s, there is no audio transferred via this ethernet connection.

1. Power up your T1 via the Tonematch power supply, or an ethernet cable connected to the L1 Pro Tonematch port
2. Run a 6.3mm TRS (stereo) cable from the T1 master out, into Ch3 on the L1 Pro.

If you want to run a pair of L1 Pro from the T4s, you’ll need to run an audio cable (TRS 6.3mm or “quarter inch” jack) from the AUX out of the T1 to your 2nd L1 Pro or S1 Pro+.

Read the full article at the Bose Portable PA Encyclopedia FAQ and Wiki

The Bose L1 Pro range initially consists of three to four systems, depending on the subwoofer configuration.

Scroll down for a detailed comparison chart.

Here are the key differences at a glance:

Pro8

Volume: 112 dB (cont.) 118 dB (peak)
Power: 60w main system, 240w subwoofer
Low frequency: 45Hz
Weight: 18kg

Pro32 with Sub1

Volume: 117 dB (cont.) 123 dB (peak)
Power: 480w main system, 480w subwoofer
Low frequency: 40Hz
Weight: 13kg (base and array) + 16.1kg (Sub1)

Pro16

Volume: 118 dB (cont.) 124 dB (peak)
Power: 250w main system, 1000w subwoofer
Low frequency: 42Hz
Weight: 24.8kg

Pro32 with Sub2

Volume: 122 dB (cont.) 128 dB (peak)
Power: 480w main system, 480w subwoofer
Low frequency: 37Hz
Weight: 13kg (base and array) + 23.4kg (Sub2)

Yes!

The F1 subwoofer is a stand-alone active subwoofer with multiple inputs and outputs.

Connect your source to the F1 subwoofer line-in, then run the line-out from the subwoofer to your L1 Pro8 (overkill, but what fun!), Pro16, or Pro32 which each have multiple input options.

Alternatively, the Pro8, Pro16 and Pro32 each have line outputs, so you can connect that directly to the F1 subwoofer input.